The following letter goes home with information completed on each puppy.
At Jasper Blues, our goal is not just to raise beautiful Siberian Huskies, it is to raise stable, confident, healthy companions who are set up for lifelong success.
We believe early experiences matter. The first eight weeks of life shape how a puppy views the world. We focus on intentional socialization, neurological stimulation, thoughtful exposure, and creating positive associations with everyday life.
We believe in:
• Building confidence, not fear
• Teaching what to do, not just correcting what not to do
• Thoughtful vaccine spacing to reduce unnecessary immune stress
• Crate training as a life skill, not confinement
• Ongoing breeder support for the lifetime of your husky
We are not just sending you home with a puppy.
We are trusting you with a piece of our family.
Your puppy has been raised with structure, love, boundaries, and purpose. The time and consistency you invest now will determine the adult husky you live with later.
Huskies are intelligent, expressive, and deeply bonded to their people. They thrive when given clarity, leadership, and engagement. When raised intentionally, they are extraordinary companions.
We are always here for guidance, support, and questions not just today, but for your husky’s lifetime.
Welcome to the Jasper Blues family.
Transition Period
The first 1–2 weeks can be difficult as your puppy adjusts to leaving mom and siblings. They are used to having lots of attention and constant stimulation. Your puppy may seem shy or sad the first couple of days, or they may be a little naughty. Please be patient and know that the time you invest in them now will make all the difference as you build a life together.
Microchip Registration Information
Your puppy’s microchip is registered in both my name and your name so we will both be contacted in the event he/she is found and scanned.
It is very important to update the database with any changes to your contact information or address.
If your puppy goes missing, update the microchip website immediately, as they send out alerts. I also recommend updating the profile yearly with new photos so that if your husky ever goes missing, you are not scrambling to upload pictures while trying to search.
Microchip #: _______________________
Vaccine Information
This is the vaccine schedule I personally follow with my program. At one year of age, I perform titers (blood testing) to determine whether additional boosters are needed for core vaccines, with the exception of Rabies, which is required by law.
I do not routinely administer non-core vaccines such as Bordetella (Kennel Cough), Lyme, or Leptospirosis in my breeding program. However, every region and lifestyle is different. Please have a discussion with your veterinarian about your puppy’s specific exposure risk.
If you choose to administer non-core vaccines:
• Avoid giving multiple vaccines in the same visit when possible.
• Space vaccines 3–4 weeks apart.
• Monitor closely for reactions after vaccination.
Spacing vaccines thoughtfully may help reduce the risk of adverse reactions, particularly in northern breeds.
Rabies should be given separately from other vaccines when possible. I recommend spacing vaccines at least 3–4 weeks apart, especially in young puppies, to reduce immune system stress.
Not following these guidelines may increase your husky’s risk of an adverse reaction.
First Distemper/Parvo Vaccine given:
Second Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Third Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Rabies Vaccine Due:
Puppy Class
Make sure you are signed up for a puppy class that includes open, structured socialization time. Do this early and as soon as possible. This is extremely important for huskies.
They need to learn that puppies of all sizes are safe and fun to play with. Many of us can teach basic obedience at home. However, in puppy class they learn to interact with different people, smells, environments, and dogs of various sizes.
The first 20 weeks are crucial in their overall development. Make every experience count.
Crate Training
This is hard because they will cry. But it is one of the most important things you can do.
Puppies should be crated during sleep times, any time they cannot be supervised for their own safety, and when they are overtired.
Do not use the crate for punishment and never scold or punish your husky while they are in the crate. If done correctly, the crate becomes a safe haven.
I strongly recommend crate training so that if your puppy ever becomes ill and needs their activity restricted, they are not learning crate training while already sick or injured.
The first several nights are usually the hardest. If you keep the crate in your bedroom at a level where they can see you, they tend to settle more easily. We place it between our pillows for the first few nights and then gradually move it to the floor.
Things that may help:
• A fan gently blowing near the crate
• Soft country music (we played this in the nursery)
• Feeding meals in the crate to create positive association
Make sure anything placed in the crate is chew-proof to prevent bowel obstruction.
When placing your puppy in or removing them from the crate, be calm and business-like. Do not act overly excited to see them or overly sad to leave them.
Try to remove them when they are quiet, unless they are alerting you overnight that they need to use the bathroom.
For daytime crating, start with very short sessions (5–10 minutes) and build up gradually. Do not crate your husky for extended periods.
Potty Training
Puppies need to go potty very often, they have small bladders. After eating, after drinking, after waking up, after playing hard, after a change in scenery, etc. Pretty much every 30–45 minutes.
We like bell training. Place bells on the door and ring them every time we go outside while saying “outside.” Soon, your puppy will ring the bells to alert you when they need to go out. This is extremely helpful so you are not constantly trying to read body language.
Take them to the same outdoor spot each time. They will quickly learn this is their potty area.
Limit their space. If given too much freedom, they will find a potty area inside. Use baby gates to section off areas of your home.
Clean accidents thoroughly. If not cleaned properly, they will return to the same spot. We do not punish or even acknowledge accidents. Huskies seek attention sometimes even negative attention so ignoring it is best.
If you cannot supervise closely, crate them for short periods.
Dedicate two solid weeks full-time to potty training in the beginning, and you will save yourself months of frustration. Potty training a husky is often more about training yourself than training the puppy. You must be one step ahead.
Look up “umbilical training.” This means keeping the puppy tethered to you on a leash indoors until trained. It can be very effective.
Biting
Puppies bite because they are teething, but they need to learn immediately that biting people is not acceptable.
Any behavior you do not want in an adult dog should be addressed in puppyhood.
Provide plenty of safe chew toys and frozen teething treats. Ignoring biting often works best. If they bite, calmly replace your hand with a toy or walk away. If they lick or gently mouth instead, praise them. Show them what to do.
Young children must always be supervised. Puppies often see children as littermates and may roughhouse. Teach children to be respectful and gentle so puppies do not become fearful or reactive.
Preventing Resource Guarding
Prevent resource guarding early.
Trade high-value toys for high-value treats so your puppy learns that giving things up is positive. Hand feed meals occasionally. Teach your puppy to wait for food and to remain calm if you briefly touch or remove the bowl.
Early prevention is much easier than correcting guarding later.
Teach them the command leave it. You can search videos on this and it’s a life saving skill worth taking the time to teach early on.
Treats
We prefer natural treat options such as carrots, cheese sticks, or small pieces of high-quality dog food rolls.
Many manufactured treats contain preservatives and fillers. If purchasing commercial treats, review ingredient sourcing and check recall history.
We do not recommend rawhide due to choking and obstruction risk.
Feeding Your Puppy
The biggest cause of loose stools is overfeeding.
Do not strictly follow the feeding amounts on the bag or the Farmina feeding chart. Every puppy is different.
Your puppy should eat:
• Three scheduled meals daily until six months of age
• Then decrease to two meals daily
They are currently eating ½ cup per meal. Slowly work up to one cup per meal over the next few weeks. Increase gradually to avoid diarrhea.
Anything not eaten within 10 minutes should be saved for the next meal.
Give NuVet daily with a meal or as a treat.
Studies show dogs fed scheduled meals live, on average, two years longer than dogs that are free-fed.
We intentionally feed an All Life Stages formula rather than a high-calorie “puppy growth” formula. In some larger breeds, rapid growth has been associated with orthopedic concerns. Slower, steady growth is generally preferred.
We currently feed Farmina All Life Stages Chicken & Pomegranate, a meat-based protein formula designed to meet nutritional needs throughout life.
While some dogs tolerate grains well, northern breeds can be more prone to zinc absorption issues. For this reason, we prefer grain-free, meat-forward diets. If you choose a different food, please transition slowly and monitor stool quality closely.
If you ever have questions about nutrition recommendations you receive, please feel free to call me. I am happy to discuss research and personal experience so you can make an informed decision.
Adding Fresh Foods
We like incorporating fresh whole foods such as carrots, blueberries, canned pumpkin, kale, lettuce, and small amounts of tomato.
We also occasionally feed raw meaty bones (never cooked) and select raw meats. If you choose to incorporate raw feeding, please do so safely and with proper food handling practices.
Replacing up to 10% of the diet with fresh whole foods can provide enrichment and additional nutrients. You may wait until 16–20 weeks of age before introducing these additions.
We also offer sardines in water (in BPA-free packaging) as a source of omega fatty acids and trace minerals.
Changing Dog Food
If changing food, follow the gradual transition plan on my website to avoid GI upset and potty training setbacks.
Diet changes are very hard on Siberian Huskies and must be done slowly. Do not change food for at least one month after bringing your puppy home.
For Upset Stomachs
Benebac (available on Amazon) is excellent for loose stools, after antibiotics, or during digestive upset. I recommend keeping it on hand.
You may also give 1–2 spoonfuls of canned pure pumpkin for mild GI upset.
Grooming
Brush or comb at least weekly. Choose one day per week so your puppy becomes accustomed to the routine.
We use:
• An undercoat rake
• A steel grooming comb
Do not use tools with blades (like a Furminator).
Focus on areas prone to matting:
• Behind ears
• Back legs
• Tail
• Belly
Always part the coat and work from the skin outward. Mats form at the skin, especially in longer coats.
I highly recommend finding a husky-experienced groomer every 3–6 months (every 3 months for longer coats). Choose someone you trust.
Baths
Huskies only need baths 1–2 times per year (usually during coat blow).
However, bathe puppies monthly so they learn baths are normal and safe.
Use a quality shampoo such as Isle of Dogs #20 to prevent coat dryness.
Furniture
Do not allow puppies on furniture or beds until they can get up safely on their own.
Falls can easily cause fractures and long-term joint problems.
Even once they can climb up independently, use caution.
Exercise
Avoid long hikes or forced walks early on. Excessive exercise can contribute to joint problems.
People often say “a tired puppy is a good puppy.” I disagree. Overtired puppies can behave like overtired toddlers, cranky and wild.
Free play in the yard, where they can run and rest as needed, is best.
For structured walks:
• No more than one block the first week
• Add one block per week as tolerated
Do not allow pulling or working activities until at least one year of age. Early pulling may increase injury risk. I want you enjoying your dog for life, not retiring them early due to preventable injuries.
All recommendations contained in this handbook are based on the breeder’s experience and research and are provided for informational purposes only. Jasper Blues Siberians makes no medical guarantees and assumes no liability for decisions made outside of veterinary guidance. Buyers are responsible for consulting a licensed veterinarian regarding their puppy’s care, treatment, and medical decisions.
Ongoing Support
I am always here to help.
Please call or text me at 320-237-6162 early before concerns feel overwhelming.
Thank you for providing a loving home to this beautiful baby.
Amy Junes
Jasper Blues Siberians
Copyright 2026. All rights reserved.
At Jasper Blues, our goal is not just to raise beautiful Siberian Huskies, it is to raise stable, confident, healthy companions who are set up for lifelong success.
We believe early experiences matter. The first eight weeks of life shape how a puppy views the world. We focus on intentional socialization, neurological stimulation, thoughtful exposure, and creating positive associations with everyday life.
We believe in:
• Building confidence, not fear
• Teaching what to do, not just correcting what not to do
• Thoughtful vaccine spacing to reduce unnecessary immune stress
• Crate training as a life skill, not confinement
• Ongoing breeder support for the lifetime of your husky
We are not just sending you home with a puppy.
We are trusting you with a piece of our family.
Your puppy has been raised with structure, love, boundaries, and purpose. The time and consistency you invest now will determine the adult husky you live with later.
Huskies are intelligent, expressive, and deeply bonded to their people. They thrive when given clarity, leadership, and engagement. When raised intentionally, they are extraordinary companions.
We are always here for guidance, support, and questions not just today, but for your husky’s lifetime.
Welcome to the Jasper Blues family.
Transition Period
The first 1–2 weeks can be difficult as your puppy adjusts to leaving mom and siblings. They are used to having lots of attention and constant stimulation. Your puppy may seem shy or sad the first couple of days, or they may be a little naughty. Please be patient and know that the time you invest in them now will make all the difference as you build a life together.
Microchip Registration Information
Your puppy’s microchip is registered in both my name and your name so we will both be contacted in the event he/she is found and scanned.
It is very important to update the database with any changes to your contact information or address.
If your puppy goes missing, update the microchip website immediately, as they send out alerts. I also recommend updating the profile yearly with new photos so that if your husky ever goes missing, you are not scrambling to upload pictures while trying to search.
Microchip #: _______________________
Vaccine Information
This is the vaccine schedule I personally follow with my program. At one year of age, I perform titers (blood testing) to determine whether additional boosters are needed for core vaccines, with the exception of Rabies, which is required by law.
I do not routinely administer non-core vaccines such as Bordetella (Kennel Cough), Lyme, or Leptospirosis in my breeding program. However, every region and lifestyle is different. Please have a discussion with your veterinarian about your puppy’s specific exposure risk.
If you choose to administer non-core vaccines:
• Avoid giving multiple vaccines in the same visit when possible.
• Space vaccines 3–4 weeks apart.
• Monitor closely for reactions after vaccination.
Spacing vaccines thoughtfully may help reduce the risk of adverse reactions, particularly in northern breeds.
Rabies should be given separately from other vaccines when possible. I recommend spacing vaccines at least 3–4 weeks apart, especially in young puppies, to reduce immune system stress.
Not following these guidelines may increase your husky’s risk of an adverse reaction.
First Distemper/Parvo Vaccine given:
Second Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Third Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Rabies Vaccine Due:
Puppy Class
Make sure you are signed up for a puppy class that includes open, structured socialization time. Do this early and as soon as possible. This is extremely important for huskies.
They need to learn that puppies of all sizes are safe and fun to play with. Many of us can teach basic obedience at home. However, in puppy class they learn to interact with different people, smells, environments, and dogs of various sizes.
The first 20 weeks are crucial in their overall development. Make every experience count.
Crate Training
This is hard because they will cry. But it is one of the most important things you can do.
Puppies should be crated during sleep times, any time they cannot be supervised for their own safety, and when they are overtired.
Do not use the crate for punishment and never scold or punish your husky while they are in the crate. If done correctly, the crate becomes a safe haven.
I strongly recommend crate training so that if your puppy ever becomes ill and needs their activity restricted, they are not learning crate training while already sick or injured.
The first several nights are usually the hardest. If you keep the crate in your bedroom at a level where they can see you, they tend to settle more easily. We place it between our pillows for the first few nights and then gradually move it to the floor.
Things that may help:
• A fan gently blowing near the crate
• Soft country music (we played this in the nursery)
• Feeding meals in the crate to create positive association
Make sure anything placed in the crate is chew-proof to prevent bowel obstruction.
When placing your puppy in or removing them from the crate, be calm and business-like. Do not act overly excited to see them or overly sad to leave them.
Try to remove them when they are quiet, unless they are alerting you overnight that they need to use the bathroom.
For daytime crating, start with very short sessions (5–10 minutes) and build up gradually. Do not crate your husky for extended periods.
Potty Training
Puppies need to go potty very often, they have small bladders. After eating, after drinking, after waking up, after playing hard, after a change in scenery, etc. Pretty much every 30–45 minutes.
We like bell training. Place bells on the door and ring them every time we go outside while saying “outside.” Soon, your puppy will ring the bells to alert you when they need to go out. This is extremely helpful so you are not constantly trying to read body language.
Take them to the same outdoor spot each time. They will quickly learn this is their potty area.
Limit their space. If given too much freedom, they will find a potty area inside. Use baby gates to section off areas of your home.
Clean accidents thoroughly. If not cleaned properly, they will return to the same spot. We do not punish or even acknowledge accidents. Huskies seek attention sometimes even negative attention so ignoring it is best.
If you cannot supervise closely, crate them for short periods.
Dedicate two solid weeks full-time to potty training in the beginning, and you will save yourself months of frustration. Potty training a husky is often more about training yourself than training the puppy. You must be one step ahead.
Look up “umbilical training.” This means keeping the puppy tethered to you on a leash indoors until trained. It can be very effective.
Biting
Puppies bite because they are teething, but they need to learn immediately that biting people is not acceptable.
Any behavior you do not want in an adult dog should be addressed in puppyhood.
Provide plenty of safe chew toys and frozen teething treats. Ignoring biting often works best. If they bite, calmly replace your hand with a toy or walk away. If they lick or gently mouth instead, praise them. Show them what to do.
Young children must always be supervised. Puppies often see children as littermates and may roughhouse. Teach children to be respectful and gentle so puppies do not become fearful or reactive.
Preventing Resource Guarding
Prevent resource guarding early.
Trade high-value toys for high-value treats so your puppy learns that giving things up is positive. Hand feed meals occasionally. Teach your puppy to wait for food and to remain calm if you briefly touch or remove the bowl.
Early prevention is much easier than correcting guarding later.
Teach them the command leave it. You can search videos on this and it’s a life saving skill worth taking the time to teach early on.
Treats
We prefer natural treat options such as carrots, cheese sticks, or small pieces of high-quality dog food rolls.
Many manufactured treats contain preservatives and fillers. If purchasing commercial treats, review ingredient sourcing and check recall history.
We do not recommend rawhide due to choking and obstruction risk.
Feeding Your Puppy
The biggest cause of loose stools is overfeeding.
Do not strictly follow the feeding amounts on the bag or the Farmina feeding chart. Every puppy is different.
Your puppy should eat:
• Three scheduled meals daily until six months of age
• Then decrease to two meals daily
They are currently eating ½ cup per meal. Slowly work up to one cup per meal over the next few weeks. Increase gradually to avoid diarrhea.
Anything not eaten within 10 minutes should be saved for the next meal.
Give NuVet daily with a meal or as a treat.
Studies show dogs fed scheduled meals live, on average, two years longer than dogs that are free-fed.
We intentionally feed an All Life Stages formula rather than a high-calorie “puppy growth” formula. In some larger breeds, rapid growth has been associated with orthopedic concerns. Slower, steady growth is generally preferred.
We currently feed Farmina All Life Stages Chicken & Pomegranate, a meat-based protein formula designed to meet nutritional needs throughout life.
While some dogs tolerate grains well, northern breeds can be more prone to zinc absorption issues. For this reason, we prefer grain-free, meat-forward diets. If you choose a different food, please transition slowly and monitor stool quality closely.
If you ever have questions about nutrition recommendations you receive, please feel free to call me. I am happy to discuss research and personal experience so you can make an informed decision.
Adding Fresh Foods
We like incorporating fresh whole foods such as carrots, blueberries, canned pumpkin, kale, lettuce, and small amounts of tomato.
We also occasionally feed raw meaty bones (never cooked) and select raw meats. If you choose to incorporate raw feeding, please do so safely and with proper food handling practices.
Replacing up to 10% of the diet with fresh whole foods can provide enrichment and additional nutrients. You may wait until 16–20 weeks of age before introducing these additions.
We also offer sardines in water (in BPA-free packaging) as a source of omega fatty acids and trace minerals.
Changing Dog Food
If changing food, follow the gradual transition plan on my website to avoid GI upset and potty training setbacks.
Diet changes are very hard on Siberian Huskies and must be done slowly. Do not change food for at least one month after bringing your puppy home.
For Upset Stomachs
Benebac (available on Amazon) is excellent for loose stools, after antibiotics, or during digestive upset. I recommend keeping it on hand.
You may also give 1–2 spoonfuls of canned pure pumpkin for mild GI upset.
Grooming
Brush or comb at least weekly. Choose one day per week so your puppy becomes accustomed to the routine.
We use:
• An undercoat rake
• A steel grooming comb
Do not use tools with blades (like a Furminator).
Focus on areas prone to matting:
• Behind ears
• Back legs
• Tail
• Belly
Always part the coat and work from the skin outward. Mats form at the skin, especially in longer coats.
I highly recommend finding a husky-experienced groomer every 3–6 months (every 3 months for longer coats). Choose someone you trust.
Baths
Huskies only need baths 1–2 times per year (usually during coat blow).
However, bathe puppies monthly so they learn baths are normal and safe.
Use a quality shampoo such as Isle of Dogs #20 to prevent coat dryness.
Furniture
Do not allow puppies on furniture or beds until they can get up safely on their own.
Falls can easily cause fractures and long-term joint problems.
Even once they can climb up independently, use caution.
Exercise
Avoid long hikes or forced walks early on. Excessive exercise can contribute to joint problems.
People often say “a tired puppy is a good puppy.” I disagree. Overtired puppies can behave like overtired toddlers, cranky and wild.
Free play in the yard, where they can run and rest as needed, is best.
For structured walks:
• No more than one block the first week
• Add one block per week as tolerated
Do not allow pulling or working activities until at least one year of age. Early pulling may increase injury risk. I want you enjoying your dog for life, not retiring them early due to preventable injuries.
All recommendations contained in this handbook are based on the breeder’s experience and research and are provided for informational purposes only. Jasper Blues Siberians makes no medical guarantees and assumes no liability for decisions made outside of veterinary guidance. Buyers are responsible for consulting a licensed veterinarian regarding their puppy’s care, treatment, and medical decisions.
Ongoing Support
I am always here to help.
Please call or text me at 320-237-6162 early before concerns feel overwhelming.
Thank you for providing a loving home to this beautiful baby.
Amy Junes
Jasper Blues Siberians
Copyright 2026. All rights reserved.
We are often asked for recommendations of what we use with our huskies. Here is a link to Amazon with our recommendations https://amzn.to/3AkCcCd